Good People of vitruta: Emirhan Paralı

Welcome, Emirhan! You have so many ventures that I’m not sure where to begin, but let’s start with a classic: Who is Emirhan Paralı? How did it all begin, what have you done, and how’s it going?

Thank you! After graduating from Sabancı University with a degree in Business Administration and working in corporate for a while, I realized my passion for food and the joy I find in hosting. This led me to Paris, where I studied Restaurant Management and entered the world of food and beverage. After gaining experience at various restaurants in Paris and Istanbul, I launched the Wondercats Pop-Up series, where we created story-driven dining experiences. Markus and Tavern followed, and recently we introduced Jön, a bean-to-bar chocolate brand, along with Markus To Go, the younger, more dynamic sibling of Markus.

Let’s start with Wondercats, your first venture. It hinted at the special projects you would bring to the food scene. Could you tell us about the path that led you there and the story behind the project?

Wondercats pop-up dinners began as a way for my partner Sinan at Markus and me to get to know each other and see if we could work well together. Each dinner featured a story that our guests experienced around a dining table. For one night, we transformed places with a historical or artisanal touch into restaurants. We've been organizing ticketed events for over five years, creating sensory experiences that convey messages for various brands and their clients. Guests attend without knowing where, with whom, or what they’ll eat—or which story they’ll hear. It’s still my favorite thing to do, as it allows us to showcase our creative side and nourishes us on a deeper, more personal level.

Markus has become one of Istanbul's iconic venues. With its menu, decor, and even its location, it’s brought us a completely new experience. How did Markus’s journey begin?

In some of the Wondercats series, Sinan prepared different variations of ribs as the main dish, and they were very well received. When discussing what we wanted to do, the idea of perfecting a single product excited us, and we decided on a rib-focused concept. We spent a long time looking for the right space in Maslak Oto Sanayi and opened Markus exactly one year after our first Wondercats dinner.

It’s clear that your place has inspired many others; the term “Markus-inspired” is often used. :) So, how did the decor, wall treatments, and lighting come about?

Unlike many restaurants, our first step was to create the menu, which we then used to build the brand’s identity. We created a Markus persona—who is Markus, what does he eat and drink, what car does he drive, what’s his favorite color and music? We wanted to surprise our guests at Wondercats, and we aimed to bring that same feeling to the industrial space. When guests step inside, we want them to feel transported to a different world. This led us to choose objects and designs with their own stories.

2022 started fast for you. Tavern was renewed, Markus expanded to the Asian side, and Jön Chocolate—probably the most “fashionable chocolate” in Turkey—came to life. Would you like to touch on each of these? (Not sure how you can briefly talk about so many great projects!)

I really do feel like I have quadruplets at the moment. Tavern has been renewed with a new identity. We opened it three years ago as Markus Tavern, Markus’s sibling restaurant. Its original charm and the atmosphere we created in Maslak were already great. However, over time, we noticed changes in our identity, our guests’ preferences, and structural issues, leading us to revamp it. We had planned this for last summer, but due to the overwhelming street interest, we postponed it until winter. Otherwise, we might have ended up as a case study for poor timing in universities! With its new look, Tavern will now be a cocktail bar with a richer music culture and excellent food.

As for Jön, it’s the result of two and a half years of research. Since before the pandemic, we've been working on increasing accessibility to additive-free chocolate and cacao. Inspired by the traditional chocolate culture of Istanbul, we chose a name that reflects this heritage and aim to be Istanbul’s chocolate. We collaborated with talented Turkish artists and designers to capture Istanbul through their eyes, creating a world that highlights their work. We started with seven different bars, each designed with a different artist, and we’re already working on new flavors for the coming months. The bean-to-bar concept is truly fascinating, and I think we’ll be hearing much more about it soon.

Markus To Go is a concept Sinan and I have discussed for the last 4-5 years. Over time, our ideas evolved, and we waited for the right moment. At the end of last year, we received an invitation from Vertical, a new meeting point on Bağdat Street, which led us to bring it to life. MTG is Markus’s younger, more dynamic, Fast Good sibling, offering quality Markus dishes in a quicker format with items like burgers and asado.

Finally, we’ll open in Emaar Mall in mid-May with our Maslak concept. This has probably been the most challenging project—it’s been an interesting experience navigating the mall process, which is quite different. In addition to our Maslak offerings, we’ll have a deli corner where customers can buy selected gourmet items like olive oil, salt, and other artisanal products. I tried to summarize, but I may not have managed to keep it brief. :)

Here comes the question I’m most curious about: With so many projects, brands, and locations, how do you keep up? What routines or habits help you manage everything?

I’m curious about the answer to that too! Honestly, these were all projects we started working on at different times, but they ended up coming together in close succession. I think the only way I manage is by sacrificing personal routines and hobbies I love. As I mentioned, each project feels like my own child, and bringing them to life sometimes means going without sleep.

What inspires you? From food to a new venue concept or brand project, what are your sources of inspiration?

A new venue or concept idea always excites me. There’s still so much to do that I often line up ideas in my head. I love visiting and observing different restaurants. Taking time to do this slowly often leads to inspiring ideas. For me, building and growing a brand is the most enjoyable part, which is why I excelled in related subjects at school. I also love sailing; it helps me clear my mind.

The vitruta team will visit Markus, Tavern, and Markus To Go with one food/drink item to choose at each. What should we go for? :)

Since ribs are our signature dish at Markus, you should definitely choose the beef or lamb ribs—my personal favorite is the long beef ribs. The Tavern kitchen will open at the end of the month, but my current favorite cocktail is "Kung fu Kenny,” slightly spicy with umami notes that I enjoy. At Markus To Go, I recommend the “Wild Mushroom & Truffle Meatball Burger” made with oyster mushrooms sourced from Vertical’s vertical farm, and the “Potato Asado” on ciabatta with our homemade smoked brisket.

I’m not sure how easy it is to find time with such a pace, but I imagine you make time somehow: any series, film, book, or podcast recommendations?

I’m relatively new to podcasts, having only started before the pandemic. My favorites are Kanepedeyiz, Serdar Prem, and Deniz Göktaş’a Ayıracak Vaktim Yok. Honestly, if it weren’t for my wife Serra, I wouldn’t have watched any films lately. So here are the last three we watched together, which I loved: The Human Voice by Pedro Almodóvar, The Worst Person in the World by Joachim Trier, and Elevator to the Gallows by Louis Malle. Currently, I’m reading Nonviolent Communication by Marshall Rosenberg and The Book of Laughter and Forgetting by Milan Kundera.

If you had to pick your top 3 favorite brands from vitruta, which would they be?

My favorites are Rains, Mud Jeans, and Spitfire :)